Himalaya Adventure: DAY 19 TUES. OCT. 21 LHASA

Blue skies and milder temperatures greeted us as we began our day. We walked to Drepung monastery and climbed more steps, smelled more strong butter candles, breathed in more smoky incense, and saw more golden buddhas. It is becoming hard to absorb all this: normally, I thrive on such cultural and historic stuff, but there has been so much of it over the last couple of weeks, that it is starting to blur in my memory and consciousness. I can't speak for everyone, but there is the sense that another monastery might be the tipping point of us. Subash, of course, is bound by the itinerary and also wants to be sure to show us all of the items this part of the world has to offer. And, to be truthful, each monastery and temple is unique in many special ways. But there is a slight overload going on here.

And, after lunch, we seemed to get the difference we needed. We stopped at Sera monastery. I was ready to roll my eyes in surrender when we pulled up at the door, but Subash promised a surprise, something that makes this monastery unique, and he didn't disappoint. Sera is the home of the crazy spectacle of the debating monks. In the early afternoon, several monks gather in the inner courtyard and organize in small groups, some sitting on cushions on the stony ground, others standing with prayer beads swaying. As if on signal, the debates begin: the topics are, apparently pre-chosen and have to do with points of theological discussion. The standers are the ones who present the topic and defend it: the sitters respond with questions or counter-arguments. The standers punctuate their points with elaborate gestures and hand-claps. For someone who loves debate, I found this fascinating, although I questioned the authenticity of this: was this a true philosophical debate, or a show for the tourists? Subash offered that it was a little of both ... with a clap of his hands.

My condition and outlook have improved, but I must admit that I'm starting to count down the trip for the return home. Not that I'm disliking the trip: quite the contrary, I'm enjoying it. But it is taking a toll on me, physically and emotionally. Too many monasteries ?