Monday 17 November 2014

DAY 5 TUES. OCT. 7 DOCHULA PASS - THIMPHU - PARO

Awake at 5:30 to witness a glorious sunrise over the hills and distant peaks of the Himalayas. This is indeed Shangri-La. Why try to write about it? It was beautiful beyond measure, silent, serene and proof that there is a higher power. Humanity could never duplicate this!

We bumped our way back along the highway to Thimphu. Back at the Dochula Pass, we stopped again and walked among the stupas commemorating those who lost their lives in a short campaign against "Indian terrorists", apparently led by the King of Bhutan himself. Our local guide, Tamden, gave us an informative tour of a late 19th century Bhutanese home. In typical fashion to homes from that time period around the world, the house had 3 stories: the lower floor was for the animals, the second floor was for storage and workshops, and the upper floor was the family's and servants' living quarters. Tamden is an amiable and informative young man who later was particularly helpful in finding a pharamacy so that we could purchase some remedies for Lou's cold.

Tamden also told us more of Bhutan's recent past. Until 2000, for example, there was no television in Bhutan. There was only one AM radio station. Now, a mere 14 years later, there is a government run channel for news and cultural events. But the airwaves have been flooded with international, particularly Indian TV. Tamden also went on to explain that in the same time period, Bhutan has become completely wireless with a 4G network. Quite a huge technological turnaround.

But, politically, Bhutan is still a wary place. Only 2 political parties may legally exist. And we were told that if you were to form a group of more than 5 persons, you could be arrested. Protest of any kind is not tolerated, nor are workers allowed to form unions. Democracy? Not quite there yet: baby steps, baby steps.

Outside of Thimphu, the road to Paro improved. We visited another much older dzong  for another highlight. The monks were observing a ritual inside and so we listened to the strange droning sounds of weird instruments and the guttural throat chants of the monks. It was a wonderful peaceful moment and we felt honoured to be part of it.  The road beyond Paro airport to tonight's lodgings was the worst yet. It wasn't a road, but rather a dirt washboard that rattled our bones, jumbled up our insides, and filled our lungs with dust. But the lodgings at Namsay Choeling Resort are superb.
Himalayan sunrise

Sunrise on the foothills

Sunrise in the distant Himalayas

Dochula Pass

Lou among the stupas ... Dochula Pass

John at Dochula

Dochula Pass ... stupas and temple


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